At the beginning of the year, nobody knew about the ALPEN-SYLT Nachtexpress. Not even me.

Then in May, during lockdown, I got a phone call from the company I work for.

"You fancy doing something with night trains?"

My head began to spin. I steadied myself on my son's pram.

"Um. Yes?"

"We are starting a new night train service from Sylt to Salzburg and back, twice a week. We need you to come back". 

So I went back to work. The company drafted me into the sales task force and wheeled me on as their night train consultant. 

It consists purely of couchettes and takes 16 hours to get from the very north of Germany to the very south and across the border into Austria.

On Thursdays and Saturdays it runs North-South, on Fridays and Sundays it runs South-North.

The current service is scheduled to run until the 7th of November. See below for future plans.

ALPEN-SYLT Nachtexpress - destinations

On its way south, the train starts at Westerland (Sylt) and calls at Niebüll, Husum, Hamburg-Altona and Hamburg Central to pick up passengers. Then it passes the night en route south. First stop for getting off is Frankfurt Süd, then Würzburg, Nuremberg, Augsburg, Munich, Rosenheim, Prien, Traunstein, Freilassing and Salzburg.

What is the ALPEN-SYLT night express like?

The ALPEN-SYLT night express currently consists of couchettes only. These are ex-Deutsche Bahn couchettes as previously seen on CityNightLine services and now dispersed all over mostly private operators such as RegioJet and Snälltaget. A few went to ÖBB as well. 

These were most recently used for running Flixtrains. There hasn't been time to obliterate the Flix foil, so they coaches still run in green livery with ALPEN-SYLT Nachtexpress branding pasted over the Flixness.

Each compartment has six padded berths with blue lining. Sheets, pillows and blankets are provided.

Every compartment has USB- and 220V sockets and every carriage is equipped with WiFi routers.

How much do ALPEN-SYLT Nachtexpress tickets cost?

Whichever ticket you buy, you always get a whole compartment to yourself

Ticket prices

The cheapest promo tickets start at €99 for a single travelling with one child. 

From September there will also be a special offer for couples, starting at €199.

The standard fare is €399 for the whole compartment to yourself, irrespective of whether it is just you or there are six of you and irrespective of where you get on and off.

I can't write any of it just yet, but it looks like the future holds expanded service and more destinations. On the carriage front, they are looking into sleeping cars and seated cars.  

Right now I'm tasked with developing a service training for the night train crews - so there is definitely going to be something.

I suggest you subscribe to my blog. That way you will be the first to know when new Nachtexpress services are announced. And if as my subscriber you ever book on the Nachtexpress, just let me know. Perhaps you'll see me on the train too. 

I'll leave you with this video by vlogger Superalbs Travels in which he beautifully captures the entire experience.

So what are your plans for travelling Europe by Rail in the rest of 2020? We've almost reached the middle without going anywhere.

It's been hard.

It's been three months of Sundays in which my only consolation (train-wise) has been a book. Did I say consolation? I meant replacement drug. Methadone. The book is

Europe by Rail.

Europe by Rail is a guide book for exploring Europe by train. It is written by Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries, runs to 544 pages and costs around £17/€20/$22.

It contains a section for before you leave, covering how to make an itinerary and how to get the best tickets. Then come the 52 routes that criss-cross Europe. The third part is an extensive reference section for rapid topical information.

This is the 16th edition. And for the first time, appositely, it includes the United Kingdom.

Before you leave

The first 50 pages lay the groundwork for your trip. They equip you with everything you need to be a self-sufficient railway traveller. I realise I'm making this sound like some arcane eastern practise, but advanced ticket whizzing is just that. 

The question of tickets and itineraries is a never-ending story and especially tickets could fill 1000 pages. Europe by Rail gives you the 20% knowledge you need to get 80% of the good deals, in just a few pages. Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries also have a surprising take on Interrail which completely changed my own opinion of the famous rail pass.

Fun fact: I've never had an Interrail pass.

A massive feat of curation

The 52 routes. Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries are also editors of hidden europe magazine, which they have been editing since 2005. There are few people alive who have seen as much of Europe as Nicky and Susanne.

These 52 routes thus represent a massive feat of curation by two of the most experienced, professional European travellers active today.. This isn't to be sniffed at. 

The routes are loosely grouped into regions - Exploring Britain and Ireland, Alpine adventures...Balkan journeys. 

Each route has a number and a name, e.g. Route 16: The Atlantic Coast of Iberia. Then stars are awarded for cities, culture, history and scenery. Countries covered, journey time and distance. A schematic map gives you an idea of the directions.

Highly distilled rail travel intel

After 400-odd pages covering the routes across Europe, there follow another 90 pages of references. "Reference" sounds like an afterthought, but this section comprises the Gazetteer - an A-Z of European countries with only the most relevant information - money, what sockets are used, national holidays. Then, what to expect in accommodation and train travel, country by country. I got sucked into this too. 

After that follows a reference section actually called reference section. An interesting addition is a compilation of city links - an A-Z of principal European cities and the approximate duration of direct train journeys to other cities.

Getting sidetracked

What I particularly love about Europe by Rail  is how it manages to reconcile concise, crystalline information with entertaining trivia. The book is interspersed with bite-size Sidetracks with at times only a vague connection to their position in the book.

But such delicious trivia. Did you know that the corridor along the side of compartment carriages was the end result of a Frechman being murdered in 1861? Or that Poland has a centuries-old Islamic tradition? Now you do. 

Summary

I may be starting to gush now. I don't see what other guidebook one could possibly need when travelling Europe by Rail. It wipes the floor with Rick Steves's Best of Europe.

If you were a complete novice you'd be off to the races with Europe by Rail. And even if you are an experienced traveller there is something for you in this book.

I always thought little of Interrail and Eurail. I never had a pass because my interests always lay further east. And for Western travel I was always fine getting my promo fixes.

If you are interested in travel writing from unusual corners of Europe, you might also like hidden europe magazine, which is edited by Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries. It is comes out in print three times a year. The next edition is due shortly. I have been a subscriber for three years now and devour it as soon as it hits my letterbox.

And if you want to click another interesting button, below you will find one for subscribing to my blog. 

Coronavirus Train Disruptions - Eastern Europe

In Eastern Europe the coronavirus train disruptions are sweeping. While Russia seemed unfazed at first, it is now the worst-hit European country and myriad trains have been cancelled. Ukraine has done a better job containing the virus, but it has also cancelled all passenger traffic since 18th March. I don't know when it is going to resume.

​

Russia - coronavirus train disruptions

Face masks seem to be urged, but not compulsory on Russian trains. Social distancing distance is not defined, but a maximum distance is encouraged.

Russia has now got a full blown epidemic on its hands and trains are severely impacted.

International Services

All international services have been cancelled. Trains to Kaliningrad pass through Lithuania without stopping. Trains that cross Kazakhstan via Petropavlovsk also pass through without stopping.

National Services

National services suffering badly. New social distancing measures are in place - essentially no train can be filled more than 50%.

• In platskart only three passengers are placed per section (not six)
• In kupé at most two passengers may be placed (not four)
• in seated cars only window seats are sold.

Refund policies

Tickets for cancelled trains can be returned and fully reimbursed. On cancelled domestic passengers are offered an alternate train/date or full reimbursement. 

Updated: 29th June

Ukraine - coronavirus train disruptions

Face masks are compulsory in Ukrainian public transport. Social distancing distance is 1.5 m.

International services

All international services are suspended until further notice. UZ did run special trains to bring Ukrainians back home from places like Poland and Czechia.

Right now I'm watching for when Slovakia starts running its rail bus to Mukachevo again. This I expect any day now.

National Services

Domestic services are gathering speed, but not everything is running yet. Check the UZ booking site for what interests you. Most trains seem to be running. I can't find anything running between L'viv and Odessa or L'viv and Kyiv.

Refund policies

All tickets are reimbursed free of charge.

Updated: 29th June. Outlook: improving

Coronavirus Train Disruptions - Southern Europe

In Southern Europe the coronavirus train disruptions have been mixed. Italy and Spain have had a catastrophic time, while the likes of Greece and Bulgaria have got off lightly - mainly because they had more time to react.

In Italy and Spain the railways have barely been running, while in Bulgaria, say, very few trains had to be cancelled.

Italy - coronavirus rail disruptions

Face-masks are mandatory on all Italian trains. It seems you also need to wear disposable gloves. Social distancing distance is 1 m.

Spain - coronavirus rail disruptions

Face masks (mascarillas) are mandatory in all Spanish trains. Social distancing distance is 2 m. 

International Services

Services to France are resuming, at last.

Services between Portugal and Spain remain suspended.

National Services

There is much less about coronavirus on the Spanisch Railways' website, Renfe.com. Random queries come up with a lot of trains. I assume most trains are running again, but not all seats are being sold. 

Refund policies

All tickets for travel from the 24th of May to the 31st of August have been automatically cancelled and the money automatically 100 % reimbursed. ​

Updated: 1st July. Outlook: stable

Portugal - coronavirus rail disruptions

Face masks are obligatory in Portugal. The social distancing distance is 2 m.

Bulgaria - coronavirus rail disruptions

Face masks are mandatory on all Bulgarian trains. Social distancing distance is 1 m. 

Greece - coronavirus rail disruptions

Face masks are mandatory on Greek trains and the social distancing distance is 2 m.

Refund policies

I can't find them. As the first shock waves have passed, reimbursement has become less of an issue, I assume.

Updated: 1st July. Outlook: stable

​

Coronavirus Train Disruptions - Western Europe

Almost all Western European trains are back to normal. The Russian Railways services from Moscow to Paris and Nice remain suspended. In Most countries you have to wear a mask on the trains.

Great Britain - Coronavirus  train travel

Face masks are now mandatory on trains in the whole of the UK. Social distancing distance is 1 metre.

Britain has eased its lockdown, though some local lockdowns remain in place. People can travel again just for the hell of it.

National Services

All franchises have been suspended, putting all railways under state control. Almost all trains are running normally.

The Netherlands - coronavirus train travel

Face-masks (mondkapjes) are mandatory on all Dutch trains. Social distancing distance is 1.5 metres.

International services

Thalys is increasing frequency. There are five daily services to Brussels and Paris Nord and back. Expected to increase to eight daily services 30th August.

IC Brussel has returned to its normal schedule between Amsterdam and Brussels.

ICEs to Germany are all running to their normal schedule. 

The Intercity to Berlin has been running to schedule since 2nd June.

Local cross border services

All local cross-border services are running.

National Services

All trains are running again. You are advised to

• Avoid crowds and the rush hour.
• wear your mondkapje.

Many thanks to Thierry and Gerben for writing in with all the details!

Updated: 20th August. Outlook: improving

Belgium - coronavirus train travel

Face-masks are mandatory on all trains. Social distancing distance: 1,5 m.

France - coronavirus train travel

France has completely left lockdown. Train travel is encouraged again. No forms are needed anymore. However, coronavirus is raising its head again in some parts of France, so be vigilant, especially in Paris. Paris is a red zone, which means restrictions can quickly be introduced. 

Face-masks are mandatory on all French public transport. Social distancing distance is 1 m.  

Ticket flexibility

Currently you can reserve an optional train and pay later, or change or cancel your tickets and reservations at your discretion. You can mess around with SNCF to your heart's content up until 31st August 2020.

Those affected by OUIGO cancellations will get their money back automatically within three days.

TER tickets issued on paper can be returned to the SNCF boutiques up to 60 days after curfew has been lifted.

Updated: 20th August. Outlook: improving.

Sweden - coronavirus train travel

No face masks necessary. Social distancing distance is not defined. 

Norway 

Face-masks are not mandatory in Norway. Social distancing distance is 1 m. 

This picture shows an empty DB Intercity. Courtesy of my friend and colleague Zugführer Martin Pavlík. Thank you!

Europe's trains during Coronavirus - Central Europe

Central Europe has fared better in the coronavirus pandemic than Western Europe, mainly due to swift, draconian measures in the Visegrád states and Germany's calm discipline. Czechia was in lockdown before coronavirus was really a thing in England.

This hit the railways hard. Slovakia introduced an emergency timetable (you can download it), and across Central Europe services were wound down to a bare-bones minimum. Only Germany kept most of its long-distance trains running, though local services plummeted.

Germany - coronavirus rail disruptions

Face-masks are mandatory on all German trains. Social distancing distance is 1.5 m.

Local cross border services

All local cross-border services are running.

Domestic Services

Deutsche Bahn are running all their mainline trains again. 

Local services are back to normal.

The DB lounges are open again, as are the restaurant cars.

Flixtrains are running again.

The ALPEN-SYLT Nachtexpress started on 4th July with only private compartments sold. Check this train out here.

Refund policies

Standard rules apply. Beware of the SuperSparpreis: it explicitly rules out any reimbursement, even in the event of full lockdown.

Updated: 8th September

Switzerland - coronavirus rail disruptions

Face-masks are mandatory. Social distancing distance is 2 m. 

International services

International trains are resuming service.

• There are now a three daily trains from Basel to Paris, four from Geneva to Paris. One train goes from Lausanne to Paris.
• Railjets and Eurocitys to Austria are running again
• All Nightjets now running again 
• Eurocitys to Italy (MIlano Centrale) restarted

Local cross border services

France: The Léman express is back to normal

Italy: Local services reach Domodossola. TILO services reaching into Lombardy, including Milan.

Germany: Services back to normal.

Austria - coronavirus rail disruptions

In Austria, face-masks are mandatory on ALL public transport. Social distancing distance is 1 m.

International Services

All trains are running again. The only services still missing are:

• The Russian Railways' Moscow-Nice service has yet to be reinstated
• Hungarian Railways MÁV have taken their sleepers and couchettes out of service again.
• International service to Hungary are being scaled back due to draconian measures in Hungary.

Poland - coronavirus rail disruptions

Face-masks are mandatory on all Polish public transport. Social distancing distance is 1 m.

International Services

International services to Germany, Czechia and Slovakia are running again. As yet there is nothing going to Ukraine, Belarus or Russia.

National Services

National services are back to normal. 100% of seats are available for sale.

Restaurant cars are open again.

Refund policies

Tickets bought before the 4th of March whose date of validity has not yet arrived can be returned for a full reimbursement.

Updated: 9th September

Czechia - coronavirus rail disruptions

Face-masks were reintroduced on 1st September and are mandatory on public transport throughout Czechia. Social distancing distance is 1.5 m.

Czechia had returned to normal, but some restrictions are creeping in.

International Services

International services are restarting! YAY!

• Trains from Prague to Berlin are running
• Regiojet has resumed services to Slovakia
• Services to Austria running
• Day services to Poland restarted
• Night trains to Slovakia, Austria and Switzerland restarted
• Night trains to Hungary are suspended

National Services

Domestic services are running normally.

RegioJet have adjusted their reservation system to ensure that there is enough space between travellers. Disinfectant soap is guaranteed in all loos. Free water now only in 1st class.

Leo Express is running one train a day between Prague and Bohumín in both directions. They provide every passenger with a face mask.

Refund policies

Tickets can be returned for a full reimbursement, even First Minute Europe promo tickets.

Updated: 29th June. Outlook: improving

Slovakia - coronavirus rail disruptions

Face-masks are mandatory on Slovak public transport. Social distancing distance is 1.5 m.

Refund policies

If you bought your ticket before 13th March, 06:00 AM, you have until 30th June to exchange it free of charge or get your money back.

If you have bought your ticket after 13th March, 06:00 AM, administrative fees apply, but I can't find where they say how much. It won't be much.

Updated: 29th June. Outlook: Improving