At the beginning of the year, nobody knew about the ALPEN-SYLT Nachtexpress. Not even me.

Then in May, during lockdown, I got a phone call from the company I work for.

"You fancy doing something with night trains?"

My head began to spin. I steadied myself on my son's pram.

"Um. Yes?"

"We are starting a new night train service from Sylt to Salzburg and back, twice a week. We need you to come back". 

So I went back to work. The company drafted me into the sales task force and wheeled me on as their night train consultant. 

It consists purely of couchettes and takes 16 hours to get from the very north of Germany to the very south and across the border into Austria.

On Thursdays and Saturdays it runs North-South, on Fridays and Sundays it runs South-North.

The current service is scheduled to run until the 7th of November. See below for future plans.

ALPEN-SYLT Nachtexpress - destinations

On its way south, the train starts at Westerland (Sylt) and calls at Niebüll, Husum, Hamburg-Altona and Hamburg Central to pick up passengers. Then it passes the night en route south. First stop for getting off is Frankfurt Süd, then Würzburg, Nuremberg, Augsburg, Munich, Rosenheim, Prien, Traunstein, Freilassing and Salzburg.

What is the ALPEN-SYLT night express like?

The ALPEN-SYLT night express currently consists of couchettes only. These are ex-Deutsche Bahn couchettes as previously seen on CityNightLine services and now dispersed all over mostly private operators such as RegioJet and Snälltaget. A few went to ÖBB as well. 

These were most recently used for running Flixtrains. There hasn't been time to obliterate the Flix foil, so they coaches still run in green livery with ALPEN-SYLT Nachtexpress branding pasted over the Flixness.

Each compartment has six padded berths with blue lining. Sheets, pillows and blankets are provided.

Every compartment has USB- and 220V sockets and every carriage is equipped with WiFi routers.

How much do ALPEN-SYLT Nachtexpress tickets cost?

Whichever ticket you buy, you always get a whole compartment to yourself

Ticket prices

The cheapest promo tickets start at €99 for a single travelling with one child. 

From September there will also be a special offer for couples, starting at €199.

The standard fare is €399 for the whole compartment to yourself, irrespective of whether it is just you or there are six of you and irrespective of where you get on and off.

I can't write any of it just yet, but it looks like the future holds expanded service and more destinations. On the carriage front, they are looking into sleeping cars and seated cars.  

Right now I'm tasked with developing a service training for the night train crews - so there is definitely going to be something.

I suggest you subscribe to my blog. That way you will be the first to know when new Nachtexpress services are announced. And if as my subscriber you ever book on the Nachtexpress, just let me know. Perhaps you'll see me on the train too. 

I'll leave you with this video by vlogger Superalbs Travels in which he beautifully captures the entire experience.

So what are your plans for travelling Europe by Rail in the rest of 2020? We've almost reached the middle without going anywhere.

It's been hard.

It's been three months of Sundays in which my only consolation (train-wise) has been a book. Did I say consolation? I meant replacement drug. Methadone. The book is

Europe by Rail.

Europe by Rail is a guide book for exploring Europe by train. It is written by Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries, runs to 544 pages and costs around £17/€20/$22.

It contains a section for before you leave, covering how to make an itinerary and how to get the best tickets. Then come the 52 routes that criss-cross Europe. The third part is an extensive reference section for rapid topical information.

This is the 16th edition. And for the first time, appositely, it includes the United Kingdom.

Before you leave

The first 50 pages lay the groundwork for your trip. They equip you with everything you need to be a self-sufficient railway traveller. I realise I'm making this sound like some arcane eastern practise, but advanced ticket whizzing is just that. 

The question of tickets and itineraries is a never-ending story and especially tickets could fill 1000 pages. Europe by Rail gives you the 20% knowledge you need to get 80% of the good deals, in just a few pages. Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries also have a surprising take on Interrail which completely changed my own opinion of the famous rail pass.

Fun fact: I've never had an Interrail pass.

A massive feat of curation

The 52 routes. Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries are also editors of hidden europe magazine, which they have been editing since 2005. There are few people alive who have seen as much of Europe as Nicky and Susanne.

These 52 routes thus represent a massive feat of curation by two of the most experienced, professional European travellers active today.. This isn't to be sniffed at. 

The routes are loosely grouped into regions - Exploring Britain and Ireland, Alpine adventures...Balkan journeys. 

Each route has a number and a name, e.g. Route 16: The Atlantic Coast of Iberia. Then stars are awarded for cities, culture, history and scenery. Countries covered, journey time and distance. A schematic map gives you an idea of the directions.

Highly distilled rail travel intel

After 400-odd pages covering the routes across Europe, there follow another 90 pages of references. "Reference" sounds like an afterthought, but this section comprises the Gazetteer - an A-Z of European countries with only the most relevant information - money, what sockets are used, national holidays. Then, what to expect in accommodation and train travel, country by country. I got sucked into this too. 

After that follows a reference section actually called reference section. An interesting addition is a compilation of city links - an A-Z of principal European cities and the approximate duration of direct train journeys to other cities.

Getting sidetracked

What I particularly love about Europe by Rail  is how it manages to reconcile concise, crystalline information with entertaining trivia. The book is interspersed with bite-size Sidetracks with at times only a vague connection to their position in the book.

But such delicious trivia. Did you know that the corridor along the side of compartment carriages was the end result of a Frechman being murdered in 1861? Or that Poland has a centuries-old Islamic tradition? Now you do. 

Summary

I may be starting to gush now. I don't see what other guidebook one could possibly need when travelling Europe by Rail. It wipes the floor with Rick Steves's Best of Europe.

If you were a complete novice you'd be off to the races with Europe by Rail. And even if you are an experienced traveller there is something for you in this book.

I always thought little of Interrail and Eurail. I never had a pass because my interests always lay further east. And for Western travel I was always fine getting my promo fixes.

If you are interested in travel writing from unusual corners of Europe, you might also like hidden europe magazine, which is edited by Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries. It is comes out in print three times a year. The next edition is due shortly. I have been a subscriber for three years now and devour it as soon as it hits my letterbox.

And if you want to click another interesting button, below you will find one for subscribing to my blog. 

Coronavirus Train Disruptions - Eastern Europe

Both Ukraine and Russia have lost control of coronavirus. The train disruptions are sweeping. 

While Russia seemed unfazed at first, it is now the worst-hit European country and myriad trains have been cancelled. 

The lights are going out in Ukraine. Several towns are in quarantine.

Russia - coronavirus train disruptions

Face masks seem to be urged, but not compulsory on Russian trains. Social distancing distance is not defined, but a maximum distance is encouraged.

International Services

All international services have been cancelled. Trains to Kaliningrad pass through Lithuania and Belarus without stopping. Trains that cross Kazakhstan via Petropavlovsk also pass through without stopping.

National Services

National services suffering badly. New social distancing measures are in place - essentially no train can be filled more than 50%.

• In platskart only three passengers are placed per section (not six)
• In kupé at most two passengers may be placed (not four)
• in seated cars only window seats are sold.

Refund policies

Tickets for cancelled trains can be returned and fully reimbursed. On cancelled domestic passengers are offered an alternate train/date or full reimbursement. 

Updated: 8th December. Outlook: stable

Ukraine - coronavirus train disruptions

Face masks are compulsory in Ukrainian public transport. Social distancing distance is 1.5 m.

International services

All international services are suspended until further notice. 

National Services

It seems that most trains are running. Ukrainian Railways are laying on extra trains for the New Year holidays. 

Refund policies

All tickets are reimbursed free of charge.

Updated: 8th December. Outlook: stable

Coronavirus Train Disruptions - Southern Europe

Southern Europe is very much in the grips of a nasty second wave. And this time the Balkans are badly hit too. 

Italy - coronavirus rail disruptions

Face-masks are mandatory on all Italian trains. It seems you also need to wear disposable gloves. Social distancing distance is 1 m.

Italy has gone back into a nasty lockdown. Travel is severely restricted. 

International Services

International services are suffering again.

• Swiss local trains reach Domodossola. 
• Thello services to Nice and Marseille are running
• TILO regional services between Ticino and Lombardy are running at half their normal rate
• Services from Vienna to Venice cancelled
• Nightjets still running. Private compartments are mandatory.
• Eurocity services from Switzerland to Italy mostly cancelled
• The Thello night train from Venice to Paris remains cancelled.

National Services

Presumably to ease contact tracing, all LeFrecce, Intercity and Eurocity tickets are now personalised. That is, with your name and for your use only.

From what I can tell, Trenitalia seems to be running all its trains.

On regional trains, only 50% load is recommended. Dunno what that is supposed to mean.

Italo is running at the moment, but at a reduced rate. I found one daily train between Venezia Santa Lucia and Roma Termini. I do hope they survive. Here is their timetable in full:

Spain - coronavirus rail disruptions

Face masks (mascarillas) are mandatory in all Spanish trains. Social distancing distance is 2 m. 

International Services

Services to France are running.

Services between Portugal and Spain remain suspended.

National Services

There is much less about coronavirus on the Spanish Railways' website, Renfe.com. Random queries come up with a lot of trains. I assume most trains are running, but not all seats sold.

There are 15 trains daily between Madrid and Barcelona on my last check.

Refund policies

Spain has reintroduced the state of emergency and all tickets can be exchanged free of charge. Spain-France: all tickets exchangeable at short notice up until 4th January 2021.

Updated: 26th November. Outlook: stable

Portugal - coronavirus rail disruptions

Face masks are obligatory in Portugal. The social distancing distance is 2 m.

Bulgaria - coronavirus rail disruptions

Face masks are mandatory on all Bulgarian trains. Social distancing distance is 1 m. 

Greece - coronavirus rail disruptions

Face masks are mandatory on Greek trains and the social distancing distance is 2 m.

International services

All international services are suspended.

National Services

National services seem to be running normally.

Only half the seats are being sold and all windows are unlocked to increase ventilation (yay! open windows!)

Here is a nice video showing what Trainose does for your safety.

Refund policies

I can't find them. As the first shock waves have passed, reimbursement has become less of an issue, I assume.

Updated: 26th November. Outlook: stable

Coronavirus Train Disruptions - Western Europe

The second (or is it third) coming of Covid hasn't thrown the trains as badly as the first wave did. However, in England a new strain of Covid has emerged, grinding Eurostar to a halt.

Great Britain - Coronavirus  train travel

Face masks are now mandatory on trains in the whole of the UK. Social distancing distance is 1 metre. Fine for not wearing a mask: up to 6,400 GBP

Britain is in lockdown. Since 5th of November much is closed again, and this is likely to affect train services. Recently they invented a new, stricter tier for London and the south east.

National Services

Updated: 22nd December. Outlook: getting worse

The Netherlands - coronavirus train travel

Face-masks (mondkapjes) are mandatory on all Dutch trains. Social distancing distance is 1.5 metres.

International services

Thalys has already laid waste to its timetables. 

IC Brussel has running to its normal schedule.

ICEs to Germany are all running to their normal schedule. 

The IC to Berlin is running to its normal schedule.

NO EUROSTARS to England.

Local cross border services

All local cross border services are running.

National Services

On 13th December the new timetable came into force, in the Netherlands as everywhere else. All trains are running. You are advised to

• Avoid crowds and the rush hour.
• wear your mondkapje on trains, at stations and on the platforms

Many thanks to Thierry and Gerben for writing in with all the details!

You can now register your trip in advance with the Treinwijzer. This helps you to see if your train is likely to be crowded. You can find out more about this here

Updated: 22nd December. Outlook: getting worse

Belgium - coronavirus train travel

Face-masks are mandatory on all trains. Social distancing distance: 1,5 m.

THERE ARE NO EUROSTARS RUNNING.

France - coronavirus train travel

France has reintroduced a pretty strict lockdown, including curfews. You need a self-declaration with you in writing stating why you are out and about.

Face-masks are mandatory on all French public transport. Social distancing distance is 1 m.  

Ticket flexibility

Currently you can reserve an optional train and pay later, or change or cancel your tickets and reservations at your discretion. You can mess around with SNCF to your heart's content up until 4th January 2021. From the 5th of January you have to change your plans at 3 days notice.

Those affected by OUIGO cancellations will get their money back automatically within three days.

TER tickets issued on paper can be returned to the SNCF boutiques up to 60 days after curfew has been lifted.

Updated: 22nd December. Outlook: getting worse. Fine for not wearing a mask: €135 for first-time offenders.

Sweden - coronavirus train travel

No face masks necessary. Social distancing distance is not defined. 

Norway 

Face-masks are not mandatory in Norway. They are only urged if you can't keep the social distancing distance, which is 1 m. 

This picture shows an empty DB Intercity. Courtesy of my friend and colleague Zugführer Martin Pavlík. Thank you!

Europe's trains during Coronavirus - Central Europe

While Central Europe fared well in the first wave, this time it is different. Czechia is completely out of control, Germany is desperately bidding to get the upper hand again while Poland has even more cases.

Germany - coronavirus rail disruptions

Face-masks are mandatory on all German trains. Social distancing distance is 1.5 m. No fine for not wearing a mask, but you will be made to get off.

Local cross border services

All local cross-border services are running.

Domestic Services

• Deutsche Bahn are currently running all their mainline trains. 
• Local services are running normally.
• The DB lounges have reopened but are not serving drinks or food.
• Restaurant cars are closed.
• Flixtrains are cancelled and the FlixMobility boss is in newspapers whining that DB should cancel its trains as well. Poor man.
• The ALPEN-SYLT Nachtexpress has cancelled its winter services.

Refund policies

Standard rules apply. Beware of the SuperSparpreis: it explicitly rules out any reimbursement, even in the event of full lockdown.

Updated: 30th December. Outlook: getting worse

Switzerland - coronavirus rail disruptions

Face-masks are mandatory. Social distancing distance is 2 m. 

International services

Most International trains are running.

• TGV Lyria service between France and Switzerland reduced drastically (one a day, except to Geneva with two daily services)
• Nightjets to Vienna and Graz are running
• Trains to Italy are drastically reduced. Most services terminating at the Swiss border. Simplon services end at Brig.
• Railjets and Eurocitys to Austria are running
• Nightjets to Germany are cancelled
• Euronights to Czechia cancelled
• Euronights to Budapest is running, albeit with only seating cars
• Euronight to Zagreb and Belgrade running

Local cross border services

France: The Léman express is running normally. Services between Neuchâtel, Portiers and Frasne are cancelled till 30th November.

Italy: Tilo services are running, but half the S50 trains between Varese and Milano Malpensa are cancelled. 

Germany: Services running normally.

Austria - coronavirus rail disruptions

In Austria, face-masks are mandatory on ALL public transport. Social distancing distance is 1 m.

International Services

International services are starting to suffer:

• Railjets to Venezia Santa Lucia terminate at Villach
• One daily EC from Munich to Verona via Innsbruck. Leaves Munich 13:33, arrives Innsbruck 15:24 and Verona Porta Nuova 18:58. Other direction leaves Verona 11:01, reaching Innsbruck 14:40 and Munich 16:26.
• Download and fill out this form to enter Italy
• IC 336 has been shortened and is running only between Linz and České Budějovice.
• The Russian Railways' Moscow-Nice service has yet to be reinstated
• Hungarian Railways MÁV have taken their sleepers and couchettes out of service again.
• International services to Hungary are scaled back due to draconian measures in Hungary.
• The IC 44/45 Vienna to Košice and 143/144 Cluj Napoca/Satu Mare are cancelled until further notice.

Poland - coronavirus rail disruptions

Face-masks are mandatory on all Polish public transport. Social distancing distance is 1 m.

Czechia - coronavirus rail disruptions

Face-masks were reintroduced on 1st September and are mandatory on public transport throughout Czechia. Social distancing distance is 1.5 m.

Face-masks are mandatory on Slovak public transport. Social distancing distance is 2 m.

Refund policies

Standard refund policies apply.

Updated: 30th December. Outlook: stable